Hyaluronic acid (HA) is widely recognized in the skincare industry for its hydrating properties. Its popularity, however, has given rise to several myths and misunderstandings. A clear understanding of HA’s characteristics and functions is essential for effective skincare practices.
What Is Hyaluronic Acid?
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance present in the human body, particularly in the skin, eyes, and connective tissues. It plays a crucial role in retaining moisture and providing lubrication. In skincare formulations, HA is typically produced through biofermentation, which ensures it is safe and frequently suitable for vegan use.
HA Is Not an Exfoliant
Despite the term “acid” in its name, hyaluronic acid does not function as an exfoliant like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs). Instead, HA acts as a humectant, drawing water to the skin and helping to maintain hydration.
Distinguishing HA and Sodium Hyaluronate
Although hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate are often used interchangeably, they are not identical. Sodium hyaluronate is a salt form of HA with a lower molecular weight, which allows it to penetrate the skin more effectively and provide deeper hydration. Many skincare products combine both forms to achieve comprehensive hydration benefits.
The Effects of Aging and Environment on HA Levels
The body’s natural production of hyaluronic acid begins to decline in the twenties. By age 50, HA levels may decrease by up to half. Environmental factors such as smoking, pollution, and ultraviolet exposure can further accelerate this reduction. As a result, topical application of HA can be advantageous for maintaining skin health.
Guidelines for Effective Application
A common misconception is that HA should be applied to dry skin. In fact, it is most effective when applied to damp skin. Applying HA to dry skin may cause it to draw moisture from deeper skin layers, potentially leading to dehydration. Using HA on damp skin enables it to bind to external water, enhancing its hydrating effect. It is also important to follow the HA application with a moisturizer to lock in hydration.
Variation in HA Product Effectiveness
The efficacy of HA products depends on the molecular size of the HA used. Larger molecules hydrate the skin’s surface, while smaller molecules can penetrate deeper into the epidermis. Products that contain a range of molecular sizes provide more thorough hydration.
Suitability for All Skin Types
It is incorrect to assume that hyaluronic acid is only suitable for dry skin. HA is beneficial for all skin types, including oily and acne-prone skin. In some cases, excessive oiliness results from a pH imbalance, and appropriate hydration with HA can help restore balance and reduce excess oil production. Additionally, HA is non-comedogenic and does not clog pores.
Reevaluating the “1000 Times Its Weight in Water” Claim
The frequently cited claim that topical HA can bind 1,000 times its weight in water is not conclusively supported by research on cosmetic-grade HA. Some studies indicate that, under certain conditions, topical HA may even contribute to water loss. However, the body’s natural HA is recognized for its substantial water-binding capacity.
Potential for Irritation and Overuse
While hyaluronic acid is generally well-tolerated, some individuals may experience irritation or dryness, particularly with low molecular weight forms or excessive use. This may occur if HA draws moisture from the skin in dry environments or triggers an immune response. Limiting HA to a single product in a skincare routine or opting for high molecular weight HA in small quantities may help prevent these issues.
Supporting Natural HA Production
To encourage the body’s own production of hyaluronic acid, consider increasing cellular turnover through gentle exfoliation with AHAs, BHAs, or PHAs, and maintaining adequate hydration by consuming water-rich foods and sufficient water.
